Tin Can Blues, 16 x 12, oil on linenThis is
Mike. When the model didn't show up one night, he volunteered to sit for us. I handed him the guitar and asked him to just get comfortable. The environment was made up as I painted.
If you're new to my blog, or even if you've been following it for a while, you may be surprised to see that I actually paint things other than trees and buildings. In fact, I love painting the figure; I just don't show them.
But since we've been talking about painting tonally and moved from the landscape to urban structures to still lifes(arguable. but humor me), it seems only fitting that we talk about painting the figure.
In reality, though, painting tonally is a way of organizing the visual world, and it doesn't have anything to do with what is being painted. (Not to be confused with Tonalism with a capital T, which is an art movement where a more narrow description applies) In the context of this blog, we're talking about emphasizing value shifts, rather than hue shifts. The principle is the same if we're painting a mail box, or a figure.
Of course, painting the figure is infinitely more difficult than painting a mail box because of drawing issues, but we're not talking about that right now. I won't be opening
that Pandora's box just yet.
I just want to direct your attention to a few key characteristics of this kind of tonalist painting. First, except for the blue shirt, the palette is very limited; white, yellow ochre, transparent oxide red, and black. With this set up, it's impossible to go crazy with saturation.
There's a tiny bit of prussian or ultramarine used in the blue shirt, but even so, the saturation in the blue is a perceived brightness. It's really very gray; check it out;

I saved this screen shot as a pretty big image, so you can click on it and see just how gray it is.
Secondly, note that there is a big value jump between light and shadow areas. Not only is it a big jump, but it's a definitive jump. There is no ambiguity between a lit area and a shadow area. Often (but not always) with a "colorist" approach, you would see a much closer value range between light and shadow (the shadow painted in a much higher key) and the light and shadow areas of a shared surface may be distinguished with more emphasis on hue / temperature shifts.
Which brings me to my third point; in the above painting, if you look at light and shadow of a shared surface– say the light blue of the shirt in light and dark blue of the same in shadow, or oranges and reds of the skin and the wall both in light and shadow– there isn't much, if any, hue shift. If it's in the orange hue in the light, it's in the orange hue in the shadow. Just much darker.
I'm not saying ignore the color of reflected light completely. I'm saying value first. Of course you'd see temperature shifts depending on what's illuminating the planes of the shadow side, but the value has to be spot on, or the structure will fall apart and you'll end up with choppy, fragmented image that lacks a sense of unity.
Card Player, 16 x 12 inches, oil on linenThis one is even more limited. No blue on the palette! The blue of his pants is made with ivory black + white, with a little yellow ochre and transparent red oxide mixed in for warmth. In art school, we had to do this exercise where we copy N.C. Wyeth illustrations with this limited palette. At first we were doubtful whether it can be done - I mean, look at those beautiful colors he used! To our surprise, we found this palette can come pretty close to many of Wyeth's illustrations. We couldn't get brighter blues, but even so, we came surprisingly close. I've since tried the exercise with copying Velasquez, Hals, and Sargent, and I must say, it is really helped me to put value first, and be more sensitive to subtle shifts of color because you have so little to work with.
I urge you to give it a try, especially if you find that you're having trouble with too much color and/or fragmented value structures in your paintings.