Quixote Oak, 16 x 12 inches, oil on linen
Here's the painting I did last Saturday at Quixote, all cleaned up (removed bugs and adjusted a few edges) and framed.
I didn't mention it in the earlier post but one of the reasons I chose this view was because I knew there wouldn't be drastic changes in light and color during the time I worked on it. As you know, painting en plein air sometimes feels like a race against the Sun, trying to get everything down before the light changes.
I knew that I was only working on my painting a little bit at a time in between my rounds of everyone's easels, so I needed a view that didn't change much. An open shade provides such a view, and while the dappled light patterns changed, that wasn't a concern because that stuff is not copied literally anyway. Dappled light is one of those things you can design with much freedom, a perfect tool for creating interesting patterns, or moving the eye around, or describing the terrain, or any number of things.
The way I use color is somewhat restrained compared to many (ok, most) of my friends and colleagues. I like a lot of grays and muted tones, for the most part. Often I just have a small area of more saturated notes (the background green, in this case) but even that isn't fully saturated.
Because of my tendency to be more tonal, I don't have huge complementary color juxtapositions between light and shadow side of a common surface. But I do sneak in a little bit of it, especially if I'm painting outside.
For example, in this painting, the dappled light / shadow pattern on the ground is yellow / violet. Whereas some artists push these complementary colors, mine are very close to gray, thus close to each other. They are variations of the same gray. By doing it this way, I can keep the light and the shadow to feel like they are occurring on the same surface, and avoid them looking like two different objects.
If you keep your light and shadow colors closely related, like in this painting, or in a more monochromatic tonalist painting, you can introduce a lot of value jump between the light and shadow and still make them feel like they're the same surface. But if you have a lot of color contrast between light and shadow, you typically need to keep the values closer (and higher keyed) to make them look believable. Usually. Not always.
So the tip of the day, is; The more color contrast, the less value contrast. And vice versa. Or to put it another way; You can have a lot of color contrast or a lot of value contrast between your light and shadow, but not both.
Usually. Not Always.
I didn't mention it in the earlier post but one of the reasons I chose this view was because I knew there wouldn't be drastic changes in light and color during the time I worked on it. As you know, painting en plein air sometimes feels like a race against the Sun, trying to get everything down before the light changes.
I knew that I was only working on my painting a little bit at a time in between my rounds of everyone's easels, so I needed a view that didn't change much. An open shade provides such a view, and while the dappled light patterns changed, that wasn't a concern because that stuff is not copied literally anyway. Dappled light is one of those things you can design with much freedom, a perfect tool for creating interesting patterns, or moving the eye around, or describing the terrain, or any number of things.
The way I use color is somewhat restrained compared to many (ok, most) of my friends and colleagues. I like a lot of grays and muted tones, for the most part. Often I just have a small area of more saturated notes (the background green, in this case) but even that isn't fully saturated.
Because of my tendency to be more tonal, I don't have huge complementary color juxtapositions between light and shadow side of a common surface. But I do sneak in a little bit of it, especially if I'm painting outside.
For example, in this painting, the dappled light / shadow pattern on the ground is yellow / violet. Whereas some artists push these complementary colors, mine are very close to gray, thus close to each other. They are variations of the same gray. By doing it this way, I can keep the light and the shadow to feel like they are occurring on the same surface, and avoid them looking like two different objects.
If you keep your light and shadow colors closely related, like in this painting, or in a more monochromatic tonalist painting, you can introduce a lot of value jump between the light and shadow and still make them feel like they're the same surface. But if you have a lot of color contrast between light and shadow, you typically need to keep the values closer (and higher keyed) to make them look believable. Usually. Not always.
So the tip of the day, is; The more color contrast, the less value contrast. And vice versa. Or to put it another way; You can have a lot of color contrast or a lot of value contrast between your light and shadow, but not both.
Usually. Not Always.




























